An abundance of okra in my CSA box has given me a much-needed nudge into unfamiliar culinary territory. The first week, it led to my first stab at pickling okra--an overwhelming success. The second week, I felt lazy and gave it to an pod-loving friend. The third week, I decided to buckle down and try my hand at a dish that, until now, I had been too timid to attempt: gumbo.

It was the roux that scared me. Something about browning flour in searing-hot butter (or oil) screamed danger. I didn't know what a proper gumbo roux should look like (reddish-brown to almost-black) or smell like (just shy of burnt toast), and I had the vague notion that if I messed it up, it would spontaneously combust, possibly setting my hair on fire. But with an armful of green and daringly red okra before me, I felt obligated to give it a try.

Full disclosure: For my first gumbo, I chose a traditional, roux-based recipe instead of one of our more healthful Cooking Light versions. Many of our lightened gumbo recipes forego the roux (and with it, gobs of calories and saturated fat) by toasting the flour in the oven, or in a dry pan on the stove. But I decided that before I was ready to make it light, I should confront my fear of the roux.

My recipe called for heating a half-cup of Canola oil close to its smoke-point, then slowly whisking in an equal amount of flour until the roux turned a glossy dark-brown. I resisted a strong urge to don protective eyewear. I occupied my toddler outside of the kitchen. I turned on the fan and focused on stirring, stirring, stirring the roux. It became quite meditative. As it slowly changed color before my eyes, I felt like an alchemist. And like a real cook.

Epiphany #1: Avoid distractions, keep stirring, and your roux will be fine.

The rest of the gumbo was a breeze, really. Holy trinity--check. Andouille sausage--yep. Spices, etcetera--no surprises there. It wasn't until I added the okra that I had my real a-ha moment. The slime that makes okra, well, okra, is key to thickening the gumbo to that perfect consistency. (In some recipes, filé powder, a gumbo spice made from ground sassafras leaves, does that job.) I had never considered okra slime to be a particularly desirable property, and enjoyed learning ways to reduce the slime-factor (roasting or grilling work well, my colleagues tell me). I now respect okra.

Epiphany #2: Slime is your friend.

Because I was cooking for friends, I saved the last step--adding the shrimp--until just before serving. I added the shrimp when the gumbo was just at a simmer and cooked it for just three minutes. That, I learned, helped me avoid the tough and rubbery morsels I'd inadvertently made in the past.

Epiphany #3: Don't overcook the shrimp.

All in all: a success. My guests loved the gumbo, and it left me feeling confident and encouraged to try it again. Next time, I'll make it light.

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RECIPE PICTURED: Gulf of Mexico Gumbo

Recently there was a chicken stock thread underway in the CL message boards. I find these conversations heartening.  Rich, fragrant, gelatinous homemade stock can make the difference between a good dish and an outstanding dish, and I’m always happy to learn of home cooks eager to make a batch.  It’s easy to prepare, and though it simmers for hours, the hands-on cooking time is minimal. Stock recipes vary widely, but a few simple guidelines will guarantee great results:

Use the right amount of water to bones/meat. CL message board user Canice says she likes her recipe, and she should: she uses 4 pounds chicken backs, necks, and wings to 3 quarts (12 cups) water, which follows the classic ratio of three parts water to two parts bones (two cups of water weighs one pound). This isn’t a hard-and-fast rule, but it’s helpful to know this proven formula, and that more water may lead to bland, watery stock, while using less will boost the stock’s flavor and body. (For more on cooking ratios, I urge you to pick up Michael Ruhlman’s forthcoming book, Ratio, at bookstores near you in April.)

Skim. Remove the foam and fat that floats periodically to the liquid’s surface. This will keep the stock pure and clean-flavored.

Watch the heat. Once you first bring it to a boil for a moment, immediately take the stock down to a bare simmer, producing a small bubble every few seconds or so. This will keep fat from emulsifying into the stock and weakening its taste.

Strain well. Leave out the particulates—they contribute nothing to the taste. Cheesecloth helps.

Message board user Sneezles says she like our Brown Chicken Stock recipe; roasting the chicken and vegetables first gives the stock deep color and rich flavor.

Photo: Courtesy WordRidden on Flickr

I love peanut butter… with chocolate, on pretzels and crackers, on bananas, on carrot sticks, on sandwiches, in ice cream, pie, or cookies, in curries, as peanut sauce for a slew of Asian dishes (and yes I'll even eat spoonfuls straight from the jar). I’m not limited to peanut butter though. Any nut will do.  I actually prefer cashew butter to the typical peanut, but almond, hazelnut, pecan (or any combination of these) are equally delicious.

There is nothing quite like spreading warm, fresh cashew butter onto a piece of toasted bread. In fact, once you make and taste your own nut butter, anything store-bought seems to pale in comparison. 

There are plenty of good reasons to make your own. Most of the regular peanut butters available in the grocery are highly processed and packed full of salt, sugar, and preservatives (though a growing number of "natural" peanut butters are free of these). Then there are those 400 or so peanut butter products that are being recalled by the FDA in lieu of salmonella outbreaks. But the best reason of all is taste and freshness. Plus, it's so quick and easy.

Here's how I do it: Simply spread out the nut of your choice in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast in a 350-degree oven for 5-10 minutes until nuts are fragrant and lightly browned. Throw them into a food processor and blend away! In minutes (or less) the nuts will turn into a paste.(Note: this is my personal recipe, which has not been run through the formal Test Kitchen tasting and testing.)

Salt is optional, but ¼ teaspoon for every two cups of toasted nuts heightens their flavor. Once processed, the nuts will reduce to about half of the original measurement. Give it a try warm, but keep the butters stored covered in the refrigerator. Let them come to room temperature for easy spreading; they may require a good stir.

The fun part is the variety and creativity involved. Experiment with different nuts and different combinations; you can also try adding in various spices and seasoning (e.g., chili powder or cumin). The results can be surprising and exciting. I do not often think of using Brazil nuts in most cooking, but blended with hazelnuts or almonds, they add a nice richness to nut butters. 

Check out our nut butter story for other tips, plus recipes that incorporate butters made from walnuts, pistachios, macadamias, and other nuts.

Homemade chicken stock is a great thing for any cook to have on hand. And in these days of economic woes and wildly cold weather, homemade stock can be inexpensive and therapeutic. Whether you're snowed in, sick, or just craving comfort on a Saturday afternoon or chilly Friday night, you will never regret a session of stock making.

Making stock from scratch takes a little time, but not a whole lot of effort. The steps are easy. Here's my personal recipe:

1. Prep: Combine the following with 8 cups of cold water in a Dutch oven:

1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
3 springs of parsley
3 sprigs of thyme
1 garlic clove
5 whole black peppercorns
1 whole roasting chicken (about 3 1/2 pounds)

2. Simmer: Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours (skimming the foam from the top is ideal).

3. Strain. Pour through a strainer to remove the solids. Cool the stock, uncovered, to room temperature. Cover and chill overnight. Skim the fat.

Storage: You can portion the stock in about 1 3/4 cup servings (the size of a standard can of broth) and freeze them for up to 1 month.

MONEY SAVING TIP: I like to remove the breast fillets from the whole chicken before adding it to the stock, stretching my investment in the chicken.

For a richer stock, try our recipe for Brown Chicken Stock.



Due to current economic woes, many of us are being frugal when it comes to holiday spending. My solution? Think like a chef!

Last, year, my inner pastry chef decided to give cookies to extended family and friends. After making and decorating about 100 gingerbread men and women, I was exhausted. But then I realized it's amazing the kind of happiness homemade goodies can bring.

I decided this year would be a homemade gift-giving year for me as well. I will be making cookies, brittle, cakes, breads, and jellies to hand out to friends and family instead of heading to the nearest mall or shopping plaza. I dropped off my first gifts this morning at the orthodontist's office. Those women were so excited to see that peppermint cake come through the door, you would have thought I was Paula Dean!

Yes, homemade gifts can be a bit time-consuming, but the warm feeling that comes from making your loved ones happy makes it worthwhile. So I say to you, channel your inner chef. Go dig into your copy of the 2008 Holiday Cookbook or check out the online version. Either way, your friends and family (not to mention your wallet and your local grocer) will love you for it. And don't be surprised if your gifts turn into regularly requested items for family gatherings.

Take a look at our Holiday Gifts section for ideas, recipes and inspiration.

Happy Holidays!